Autumn is a wonderful time to revisit what we know, and that’s precisely what Pharrell Williams did. As Louis Vuitton’s men’s creative director, Pharrell took the preppy, Ivy League trend and placed it in a new runway. You can forget the stiff blazers and overwrought letterman or varsity clothing. This is smart, bright, and unpredictable.
A New Twist on Collegiate Memory
As the weather cools and a school-year vibe returns, classic staples such as camel hair, corduroy, and cashmere fit in nicely. Ivy style has always been a reference point for such names in fashion as Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne but Pharrell brings an additional perspective. Rather than wearing borrowed prestige, or borrowed logos from universities to which he has never attended, he has stripped the location entirely. Pharrell worked with playfulness and a cultural touch on Ivy style, without being in parody.
With a nod to the transatlantic prep referencing both British rowing inspiration and lived American campus experience, the collection kicked off. With the traditional palette as a foundation, other ingredients were added to wake it up, including pops of pennant colors, tartan LV monograms, and intricate crests and motifs. These are not just found on suiting and shirting but also found across nice accessories (scarves, ties and caps) that would suggest in such subtlety.
Tailoring Not Tied Down
The silhouettes throughout the preppy inspiration were far from pinned down. Take the opening look: a long, un-tucked rugby shirt layered over a tartan kilt. In another look, a cropped, double-breasted jacket with elasticized cuffs and hem added an element of sport to what was going to otherwise be a formal item. There is tailoring, yes; but not in the traditional sense. This was an unstructured, free-thinking and free-wheeling interpretation.
Pharrell’s previous runways already show he can shift men’s fashion narratives, and perhaps most remarkably, at his 2019 Chanel catwalk, Pharrell donned pearls, opening greater acceptance for gender-fluid fashion. Now at Louis Vuitton, Pharrell continues to push elements that were not supposed to coexist (dandy/jock, elite/street).
Accessories as Focus
No Pharrell drop would be complete without accessories that command attention. In this case, the tuques were opening as props for the Speedy P9 with suede, silk scarves, and rugby-shaped clutch. Accessories are not intended to be added onto a collection; they are part of the story. Oh, and there is even the mascot of the collection: a turtle charm that runs across the bags.
The garments included in this capsule are not just an homage; it is heritage that has been remixed. If Ivy style was the starting point, Pharrell’s version of Ivy style is what happens when you let it breathe, evolve, and live outside of campus. This concept is original enough regardless of whether you are preppy, or just preppy that it is worth a look.
