Loro Piana, the luxury brand owned by LVMH and often worn by Bernard Arnault, rejects the label of “quiet luxury.” CEO Damien Bertrand, who joined from Dior, insists the brand’s recent success is not merely due to minimalist trends. He cites initiatives like a high-profile pop-up store in Zermatt as evidence of their dynamic approach.

Bertrand’s leadership marks a shift towards a more contemporary image for Loro Piana, aiming to appeal to a broader audience. The introduction of leather goods, including the Bale handbag, and a focus on interiors signal this evolution. Bertrand’s mandate is to elevate Loro Piana to rival Hermès, aiming for it to be the pinnacle of luxury.

Despite LVMH’s initial promise not to change Loro Piana, the brand has evolved significantly since its acquisition a decade ago. Bertrand, a native of Marseille with a background at L’Oréal and Dior, has subtly shifted the brand’s strategy to attract a wider clientele. He argues that Loro Piana’s potential is infinite, and the brand is not just for the ultra-rich. Last year’s launch of the Bale bag was a crucial step, marking Loro Piana’s entry into the lucrative leather goods market, which drives much of Hermès’ growth.

Loro Piana Rejects Quiet Luxury Label Amid Strong Growth
Loro Piana’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection celebrates artisanal craftsmanship inspired by Italy and Japan, aiming to attract younger consumers.

The emphasis on high-quality materials and craftsmanship remains central to Loro Piana’s identity. The brand’s vertically integrated supply chain and initiatives like the Record Bale competition highlight their commitment to excellence. The competition encourages merino farmers to produce finer wool, and products made from the winning wool are highly sought after. However, challenges like climate impacts on raw materials and the scarcity of wild vicuña fibres underline the importance of supply chain resilience.

Bertrand also focuses on attracting new talent to maintain Loro Piana’s high standards. The brand engages with schools and universities, particularly in regions known for luxury manufacturing, to inspire future artisans. They are also integrating modern technology, including AI, to enhance their production processes and maintain quality.

Loro Piana Rejects Quiet Luxury Label Amid Strong Growth
Loro Piana’s Record Bale competition encourages merino farmers in Australia and New Zealand to produce increasingly finer and higher quality wool.

Loro Piana is enhancing its brand appeal through sponsorship of elite sports events like the Ryder Cup and the Giraglia Regatta, further solidifying its status among the global elite. Bertrand encourages customers to see themselves as part of an exclusive community, noting that the brand’s subtle, logo-free designs are recognized by connoisseurs.

The brand’s strategy under Bertrand aims to balance tradition with modernity. He has reworked the brand’s silhouette to make it more contemporary and introduced seasonal themes to appeal to younger consumers. Bertrand believes that while Loro Piana’s production capacity is limited, the exclusivity and quality of their products ensure continued demand and growth.